PETRINA JADE BROOKS: December 2019

*THIS IS A IN-DEPTH READ, FOR THOSE WHO REQUIRE JUST A SHORT SUMMERY PLEASE SCROLL DOWN

My first memory of staring at my skin was in primary school. I loved my plump cheeks and silky soft skin, with not a pimple insight. Then puberty hit and the change was literally overnight. My mum refused to buy the generic skin clearing products of my era such as Clearasil and Neutrogena so I would raid her Avon cupboard for skin treats.

During my years at secondary I went through the worst of my skin problems. I developed hyper-pigmentation, depressions the lot. Aged 14 I came up with the miraculous idea of smothering my face with Sudo-Cream and calmly walking to school looking like a complete clown!.

So here we are 15 years later and I am still dealing with my skin issues but with more knowledge which I thought it would only be right to share with my followers and readers. My first introduction to acids came after watching a YouTube Video and purchasing; The Ordinary Latic Acid and Niacinamide Serum. I read the small print and thought this sounded great for me! But I had no idea about AHA's and BHA's.

AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid and BHA-Beta Hydroxy Acid. AHA's are water soluble acids made from sugary fruits. They promote skin rejuvenation, even skin tone and gently exfoliate the skin for improved skin texture. They peel away the surface of your skin to reveal more evenly pigmented skin cells. AHA's also generate new skin cells during the exfoliation process improving the skins elasticity and collagen production. BHA's on the other hand are oil soluble acids their unique properties make them excellent acids for oily, acne prone skin types. They exfoliate deeper into the pore to remove dead skin cells and help balance the skins PH by removing excess sebum and tighten pores. As BHA's can go deep into the hair follicle to dry out excess sebum this allows the acid to unclog pores and help ease the removal of blackheads (during extractions) and breakouts.

HOW TO USE AHA'S & BHA's

The effects of AHA's can vary. Different types of AHA's acids will yield different levels of exfoliation. Any selected AHA should have a maximum concentration between 10% and 15 %. No matter the acid you choose, as they all have exfoliant effects, your skins sensitivity will increase. It is essential you wear sunscreen daily to prevent superficial burns, decrease the risk of skin cancer and reduce the development of age spots.

BHA's on the other hand are more proactive for Acne, oily or combination skin. This acid only needs to be applied a few times a week until your skin becomes used to the acid. Like AHA's, BHA's can cause skin sensitivity. For maximum protection sunscreen is advised for all skin types.

THE COMBINATION OF AHA's OF BHA's

The combination of the two can produce a much plumper skin and smoother texture. This is down to the increase of collagen production. However, although the benefits of combining the two acids can lead to "glass skin effect". Overlaying can cause dryness and irritation as both formulas are exfoliants. The ideal way to combine both acids would be to apply AHA'S - to dry areas or areas that often need hydration and BHA's - to oily areas such your T-zone.

Ok! Now we know the low down how do we select what's beneficial for your skin type? Well it depends on our skins needs. So what's your skincare goals? For those looking for acids on the anti-aging spectrum and require the remove of anti-pollutants, plumper skin and cell reproduction. AHA's should be key serums in you skincare routine. Full of peptides and enzymes to help with the increase of collagen production, you'll be sure to see a difference.

In need of a more intense treatment for acne or combination skin? Then BHA's should be your staple. Low doses will help calm inflammed skin. Whilst acids such as Salicylic acid can also exfoliate deep into the pore, controlling your sebum production levels and restoring your skins PH to a nuetral balance.